| Intrepid Stonewallers John L. Cole and Randy Paylor attended the
full week of the National Speleological Society Convention that was held in Camden, Maine
this year. Maine?? You thought there weren't any caves there? You get a gold star. There
aren't! Nothing most of us would consider worthwhile to explore, anyway. But the 1000+
attendees didn't despair - there is plenty to do in Maine that is a nice change of pace
from caving, and there were a few small holes for the people that absolutely had to have
their darkness fix. Driving the 1200 miles (21 hours) from Lexington
Kentucky was about the limit of our road tolerance. We drove till we dropped the first day
- at a campground in the Berkshire Mountains of Western Massachusetts. Then on to the
"down east" coast, arriving at the little burgh of Union to register at the NSS
campground. We scored a great campsite in a small grove of trees, laughing to ourselves
that all the other poor folks would have to bear the blazing sun out in the fairground
fields. The joke was on us, however. That evening when the breezes died down, our cute
little grove became assault headquarters for the squadrons of oversized Maine mosquitoes.
A huge can of industrial strength DEET, two citronella candles and four mosquito coils
later, we managed to reduce the attack to a minor sortie. The evening improved further
with the plaintive cries of loons in the nearby lake.
The facilities for the convention this year were very nice. The Camden Regional
High School is akin to an upscale university structure, and is convenient to the local
points of interest at Camden and Rockland. Both Camden and Rockland are attractive bay
towns, with thriving marine commerce and picturesque architecture. Experiencing the cool
ocean breeze and local flavor of Camden finally made us feel like we were on vacation.
After the initial presentations, sessions, and
vendor perusals at the school, the big kickoff Howdy Party was the destination of the
evening. Fresh Maine lobster and homemade blueberry pie were the specialties. And all us
beer snobs were grateful that a microbrew porter was one of the featured taps on the beer
truck. The party was held at the Snow Bowl, a ski resort just outside of town. The
highlight of the evening was the chair lift that whisked lobster-filled cavers up Ragged
Mountain for incredible views of the Maine countryside and ocean. Many old and new friends
chatted away till the party moved on back to the Union campground and continued (for some)
until dawn - which was at the ungodly hour of 4:00 am in that part of the world!
On Tuesday, after the
Congress of Grottos meeting where John gladly stepped down from the chairman post, and
after the geology sessions, a sailboat ride was in order. The convention arranged with a
local outfitter to take every attendee on a free boat ride during the week. Leaving from
Rockland Harbor, the 1-hour tour gave us newbie sailors a fun sample of the high seas.
Another boat ride on a larger vessel, the Monhegan, was arranged for Wednesday, and a crew
of over 120 NSS folks partied on the coastal tour from Rockland Harbor to Camden Harbor.
After our sailboat ride, we had quite a dining experience at a little dockside restaurant
called Contes where the lobster met Tuscany, and it felt like we should have been perched
on the Mediterranean instead of the Atlantic.
Wednesday was the day for the exploration sessions, which are some of
the most interesting presentations for NSS cavers. National and international cavers
discussed all the latest big discoveries and updated us on ongoing exploration projects.
Back at the campground, the Speleolympics was going strong. Later in the day, Acadia
National Park beckoned us away - up the coast through Bar Harbor and onto Mt. Desert
(pronounced "dessert") Island.
The day was waning, so we took a short but
spectacular climb up a granite monument called the Beehive, where the trail consisted in
large part of metal handrails and ladder rungs bolted into the sheer rock. The views of
the ocean and coastline were amazing, and we could see a few sea caves dotting the rugged
coast here and there. Another loop hike took us down along the coast itself, by Sand Beach
where the sand was made up exclusively of shell fragments, and out onto Great Head (false
advertising - no cute rangers in sight anywhere). The Great Head trail took us around by a
sea cave that we tried to reach. The tide was coming in as we were hiking, so the final
push to get into the cave stopped where the crashing water blocked the way. We got some
good views of the entrance, and we later learned that the cave was about 40 feet deep, not
too shabby by Maine standards. We drove back toward the campground and the traditional
Wednesday night party in a severe thunderstorm that knocked out power to all of Acadia and
a large portion of the coast. It was strange driving down the coast in the pitch black,
half expecting a moose to be blocking the way whenever a flash of lightning revealed the
landscape around us.
Thursday was our annual Stonewall business meeting, and we had a couple of new
attendees in addition to the old guard folks that always manage to show up. John C.
gleefully accepted reelection to the Co-Chair position after the arm-twisting was to no
avail. We finalized the wording for another ad in the NSS news, and discussed our plans
for the web site and upcoming trips to Alabama and Butler Cave, Virginia. Other than our
meeting, Thursday was a slow day, and we took the time to check out all the other things
that the convention had to offer. There are all types of 'salons', or contests, for
cave-related material. There are showings of all sorts of things like maps, photographic
prints, newsletter covers, t-shirt designs, patches and emblems, videos, and artwork. It's
enlightening to peruse all the material to see what other NSS members and grottos are
doing. The favorite salon of the week is shown Thursday evening. The slide salon features
all the best cave-related photographs that are submitted to the NSS for the year. It's a
great way to just sit back, relax, and enjoy the caving experience through other people's
eyes, and this year's slides were spectacular as usual.
Finally on Friday we got to do one of the required
activities on my personal list. Driving back up to Acadia, we got on a half-day solo sea
kayaking tour. We really got lucky and were the only ones on the trip, so our guide
decided to take us much further than most people usually go. We started the trip in Bar
Harbor, at Bar Island, and after adjusting all the bells and whistles on our kayaks we
were on our way to the Porcupine Islands. There are four Porcupine Islands in Frenchmans
Bay - Sheep Porcupine, Burnt Porcupine, Long Porcupine, and Bald Porcupine. We paddled around all four of them, and even got out to
a small, protected island called The Hop, which is almost all the way across Frenchmans
Bay. It was an incredible trip, with the 3-4 foot swells just
challenging enough for us. Huge cliffs, crashing waves, big sea caves, and a whole bunch
of playful porpoises really made the trip one of my favorite convention achievements.
We made it back from the kayaking trip just in time to grab a plate and partake in
the final banquet event back at the school. The food was great, and everyone got a chance
to socialize with the incredibly diverse caving community one last time. The annual NSS
awards are handed out during the banquet. There were presentations for NSS Fellows,
special awards for things such as conservation, exploration, scientific research, and
other important accomplishments; the change in NSS officers (welcome new NSS president
Scott Fee!); and the passing of the convention hat to next year's organizers. Next year's
convention will be held in Porterville, California, next to Sequoia National Park - 4.5
hours south of San Francisco.
With the convention officially over, we realized we never got into a cave! The
horror! We decided to rectify the situation on our return trip by participating on one of
the featured post-convention trips. After driving back through Massachusetts, where I
finally saw a moose (yay!), we arrived in Schoharie in New York State. Emily Davis, who
many of us know and who runs Speleobooks, hosted a bunch of cavers at her property there.
Near Emily's place are three major NSS preserves - the Barton Hill karst preserve, the
Schoharie Cave preserve and the McFails Cave preserve.
Of all the NSS caves in the area, McFails is by far the
best. It is the biggest cave in the northeast, and is a big cave even by TAG or Kentucky
standards with almost 7 miles of mapped passage. It features a 70' waterfall entrance
drop, and with the water temps in the 40s a wetsuit was a requirement. It was over 10
years since I had done McFails before with Scott Jones, so the trip seemed almost new to
me. We joined up with Gerald Moni from Tennessee and were led into the cave by Ed Lucas.
And at the last minute, 20-something ex-championship wrestler muscleboy Kyle J. joined the
trip.
After the short hike by the karst features on the property, and after rigging the
Acks Shack entrance as a precaution, we made our way into the small wet canyon entrance
and set up the drop. You haven't experienced great vertical caving until you've rappelled
and climbed with a waterfall pounding on your head! With everyone safely down the rappell,
we followed the water down a very long, perfectly linear joint passage, negotiated two
cable ladder drops and waded on to the first junction. At the junction, we took a short
side trip to view some nice formations and helictites that were a nice bonus.
The main passage of the cave starts out as walking canyon about 10 feet high and
gets continuously higher until the ceiling is lost in the darkness and sinuous ledges
overhead. McFails is a very nicely decorated cave, with big, pristine flowstone decking
the walls in many places. An oddity of the passage was a narrow white travertine stripe
running down the center of the water channel for most of the way. With the constantly
flowing water, we didn't see how the calcite could have been deposited there, and it gave
the impression of a winding highway as we ran through the shallow water and jumped deep
potholes.
We turned around at a big area called the Waterfall Junction, where we looped back
around on ourselves through some chilly water crawls. The passage was getting much bigger
at this point, and much more huge cave lay ahead of us. In the interest of time and
hypothermia, we almost ran back through the water passages. Gerald seemed immune to the
cold and took his sweet time on the way out, so we stopped at various places and climbed
around to check out the nooks and crannies.
The rope climb back out of the cave was the biggest challenge. There were two
ropes rigged. The first was directly in the waterfall, but gave a direct climb with no
rebelay switchover. The other rope was rebelayed out onto the pit wall at a bolt that
required crossing while dangling over the pit. Deciding to take the wet adventure instead
of the technical one, all of us except Ed climbed in the waterfall. It was flowing enough
so that breathing was difficult in a few spots. No stopping on this climb! We all made it
out without incident, however, and my rope got a needed cleaning from the experience.
Saying our farewells to new friends and old, we drove the final 12 hours back to Kentucky,
pondering what the NSS convention in California might have in store for us next year. |